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Showing 91 - 120 of 1689 comments

Parsnip 05 Mar, Jeri (USA - Zone 3b climate): When can I start parsnips indoors for zone 3b? Or when to plant seeds outdoors? My season may be too short to start outdoors?
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Onion 04 Mar, Mary (USA - Zone 8a climate): Do onion sets do well in a container?
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Asparagus 02 Mar, Nancy (USA - Zone 9b climate): I planted crowns last year in a raised bed. As of today, March 2nd, I have a lot of spears and ferns that are 3-4 feet high. Do I continue to let them grow or cut it all down at the soil level? Can’t seem to find the right answer.
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Asparagus 25 Mar, Jill C. (USA - Zone 8b climate): You must be south of me. I'm in Bastrop. My "ferns" (not sure what to call those) are over 5 feet tall now! I'm going to let them grow now until they die out when it freezes. I got one spear the first year!
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Strawberry Plants 01 Mar, Anne (USA - Zone 9a climate): Any variety suggestions for growing strawberries in Las Vegas?
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Strawberry Plants 29 Feb, dan (USA - Zone 10a climate): I've ordered stawberries (Seascape and Mara Du Bois) grown in hanging baskets. I'd like to include companion plants, any thoughts? Thank you in advance.
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Chilli peppers (also Hot peppers) 29 Feb, Mike (USA - Zone 5b climate): What does T and S mean is that when I would want to move the indoor seedlings outdoors?
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Chilli peppers (also Hot peppers) 12 Mar, Liz (Gardenate) (New Zealand - sub-tropical climate): S means sow (suitable time) and T means transfer seedlings to growing bed. You could harden them off a bit by putting them outside (in their little pots or trays) during the daytime and then moving them under cover at night. Do that for about a week, then going out into a garden bed will not be such a temperature shock for them.
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Dill 26 Feb, Michael (USA - Zone 7b climate): which side sun Direction for mammoth dill plant in elevated raised bed garden zone 7b Texas?
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Asparagus 25 Feb, Sherry L (USA - Zone 8b climate): Zone 8b, Central Georgia. Since we have pretty hot, scorching summers, would it be better to plant asparagus where it doesn't get full afternoon sun? Just afraid it couldn't take the heat.
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Tomato 21 Feb, Jenni (USA - Zone 7a climate): I have had AMAZING results with planting tomatoes with Epsom salt in the planting hole, mixed in the soil. Then I use Super Thrive when I water, it's available at Walmart and Amazon. You can use it on any plant,indoors or out. Just try it. You'll love it!. I also feed with a good organic fertilizer. Foxfarm is the best for me, as well as their soils. Can't be beat.
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Garlic 19 Feb, Bruno K. (USA - Zone 9a climate): First time for me planting Garlic. I planted them last October. My question: Many of the green shoots I had have dried, now in Mid Feb. i noticed that new green shoot are coming up is this normal for garlic or did I do something wrong? my next question: I planted Tomato seeds on Feb. 1, 2024 Tycoons, Dixie Red, Celebrity and Juliets, they have 2 sets of true leafs and are about 4" tall, with temp. outside in the low 50's and daytime temp. Mid 60's is that a good time to harden them off? they are only 3 weeks old. Any Advise will help.
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Carrot 18 Feb, Pat (USA - Zone 8a climate): Cover with a board means: place a board on the ground flat over the seeds. Carrot seeds do not need light to germinate. Look under board a couple times a day if possible, until you see first leaves of carrots. When more than 10 % or so appear, remove the board so they can grow normally. PS it works well to plant not a single ROW of carrots, but a band of carrots, maybe 6 to 10 inches wide. Whatever width you can manage to work. To thin. If sown thicket enough, you can pull the little babies to thin and use them in salads.when you have carrots left about 2” apart, leave them to grow to size. As you need carrots, thin further. By the time they mature you should have enough room for them to grow full since. You might leave 2 or 3 in a back corner to continue on to next year, when they should eventually go to seed for you. To save seed, allow them to die and brown, save the tops and further dry seed indoors on an herb rack of mesh that should prevent seeds from coming through. When dry, collect on a piece of paper and allow to dry further. When dry, store in a paper envelope or seed pack.
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Eggplant (also Aubergine) 16 Feb, Jimmy (USA - Zone 6a climate): The guide says for my zone, 6A to start eggplant in Feb and plant out in 4-6 weeks. Absolutely a error here. Right now we are 12 weeks out from our last frost date, May 9th. Unless you have a hot house or hoop house, do not Start seeds yet.
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Asparagus 15 Feb, John spence (USA - Zone 7a climate): When and how is the best time to plant asparagus seed in zone 7a
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Asparagus 19 Feb, (USA - Zone 9a climate): Best time to plant crowns is February and March or November and December
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Peas 15 Feb, william (USA - Zone 7a climate): how to grow pigeon peas in zone 7a
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Sweet corn (also corn,maize) 12 Feb, Chris (USA - Zone 6a climate): What is the Ideal sweet corn variety for growing in zone 6a?
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Cabbage 10 Feb, ER (USA - Zone 7b climate): What does plant seeds "undercover" mean?
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Cabbage 15 Feb, Liz (Gardenate) (New Zealand - sub-tropical climate): Young seedlings can be affected by sudden changes of temperature. To prevent this seedtrays are usually kept under cover for a few weeks. Any area which mantains even, frost-free, temperatures 24 hours will do. e.g. Unheated greenhouses, a covered area close to the house, or small frames covered with frostcloth or with a piece of fabric like old bed sheets. If possible put the trays above ground level. Too much strong sunlight can do as much damage as cold nights to seedlings.
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Cabbage 14 Feb, Domanique (Canada - Zone 5b Temperate Warm Summer climate): Plant undercover in seed trays (with a dome or other thing like that)
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Cardoon 08 Feb, Sofia (USA - Zone 6b climate): Hi! Can anyone suggest varieties that are likely to overwinter and establish as perennials in Zone 6b? Thanks!
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Onion 07 Feb, Brenda (USA - Zone 5a climate): What do you mean when you say plant out
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Onion 12 Aug, Vicki (USA - Zone 8a climate): Plant out means to plant your transplants out into the garden.
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Onion 07 Feb, (USA - Zone 5a climate): Hi, it means to take the seedlings you've grown from seed, and plant them in the ground or bigger pots.
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Onion 08 Feb, (USA - Zone 5a climate): Thanks
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Squash (also Crookneck, Pattypan, Summer squash) 06 Feb, Mike Johnson (USA - Zone 6a climate): I have Georgia Candy Roaster squash seeds, Heirloom. Can they be grown in 6A?
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Tomato 05 Feb, Barbara Shaw (USA - Zone 8b climate): What should I pretreat my soil with before I plant tomatoes . They are pretty and then they get root rot on bottom. I heard calcium . Is there anything else Thanks
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Tomato 20 Feb, jacob (USA - Zone 10a climate): my understanding is that root rot is due to a lack of calcium, but calcium is usually plentiful in garden soil. the real issue is with inconsistent watering, meaning the plants cannot properly absorb that calcium. water more!
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Tomato 24 Feb, Celeste Archer (Australia - temperate climate): I think you might have blossom end rot, and root rot mixed up. Blossom end rot occurs on the base of the tomato, and is caused by a lack of calcium (usually -- it could be other things that cause the calcium to be unavailable - PH, lack of water etc.). Blossom end rot causes the tomato to look deformed. Calcium added to the soil at the time of planting is usually adequate to ensure this does not happen. The calcium really needs to be added EARLY in the growing stages. You could also use egg shells -- I would grind/smash up the shells pretty good then work them into the soil of the planting hole; better yet, enrich with egg shells over the winter and early spring in anticipation of future planting. Root rot usually occurs when water sits around the roots of a plant for long periods of time -- bad drainage, excess watering, soil that holds too much water (which is really drainage). If you have proper aeration this usually doesn't happen since the air flow will whisk away excess moisture (provided it isn't a swamp at the roots). Try to create updrafts in your pots -- you want water drainage holes that do double duty -- let the water run off and allow air in. I find that holes at the SIDE BOTTOM of the pot, rather than directly under the pot, work well. It may seem like a hole at the side of the pot will let the soil out -- but pretty much after the first watering this stops happening -- and once the roots take hold it certainly does not happen. No need for drainage material (stones etc.) -- just use soil/compost top to bottom -- expect soil to come out at first when filling the pot -- after that you should be fine. I make my holes rather large -- on a BIG pot these holes are about 3inches (circular). Roots of plants really like air (maybe not direct exposure) but they certainly like the occasional breeze through the soil. Face the hole on the shady side of the pot for a cooling updraft in hot weather.
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