Growing Carrot

Daucus carota : Apiaceae / the umbelliferae family

Jan F M A M J J A S O N Dec
    P P P P P          

(Best months for growing Carrot in USA - Zone 5a regions)

  • P = Sow seed
  • Easy to grow. Sow in garden. Sow seed at a depth approximately three times the diameter of the seed. Best planted at soil temperatures between 46°F and 86°F. (Show °C/cm)
  • Space plants: 2 - 12 inches apart
  • Harvest in 12-18 weeks.
  • Compatible with (can grow beside): Onions, Leeks, Lettuce, Sage, Peas, Radishes, Tomatoes, Beans, Celery, Rosemary
  • Avoid growing close to: Parsnips, Beetroot, Dill, Brassicas, Fennel

Your comments and tips

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26 Jan 16, fred (Australia - temperate climate)
Do you also work for Yates? (Gardenate is completely independent. Liz)
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29 Dec 15, Heather Ryan (Australia - temperate climate)
I have recently acquired a 4m x4m plot in a community garden and the soil in quite sandy.I have previously only gardened with clay soil and these soil conditions are a new learning curve for me.What can I do to improve the soil for vegetable growing.
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30 Dec 15, Gregg Miller (Australia - temperate climate)
Heather, I guess you are in a coastal area. The use of seaweed has very successful in this way. My Mum used to gather seaweed from the local beach on the NSW Central Coast. Use the seaweed and along with spent mushroom compost, news paper, straw, other compost from organic matter only. Australian soils are very poor and most need this kind of build up. Local Stores that sell mushrooms will also sell spent compost. You could also try a legume such as peas, these add nitrogen, easy to grow and then turn in. You may also find Complete Australian Gardener book willbe most helpful. Gregg.
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02 Jan 16, Gregg Miller (Australia - temperate climate)
Heather I was wondering how You went. Gregg Miller Sydney
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08 Jan 16, Heather Ryan (Australia - temperate climate)
I have recently acquired a plot in a community garden and as the soil is sandy over limestone, I had every intention of using the No- Dig method of raising the garden beds and building up the layers starting with a wetta soil product with a bentalite clay additive, newspaper,a layer of coarse composted bark chips and then the usual layers of lucerne ,blood and bone, manure ,pea straw, compost etc. I know Perth soils are very sandy and they use this wetta soil product to help retain some moisture...Am I wasting my time trying this. Great idea about the seaweed! Would you have dry it first or do you use it in its fresh state. I have only gardened on biscay clay soils around the Barossa Valley previously so this is a whole new ball game for me. Appreciate you taking the time to reply,Thanks!!
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10 Jan 16, heatherRyan (Australia - temperate climate)
P.S. Sorry the correct spelling of the clay product is bentonite clay and I did a little research about Seaweed and you don't have to wash the salt off it it you only use small amounts of it . I am still awaiting approval for my plot as it has to go before a committee meeting who meet monthly.
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13 Jan 16, Haydn G (Australia - temperate climate)
Hi Heather, You may wish to check out a product called Soil Solver Clay. This contains kaolin clay and is far more "garden friendly" than bentonite clay. I have used both and found kaolin clay more favourable and you can use a lot more in your soil to hold the moisture. Also, I have seen a reduction in nematode activity when I have used kaolin clay. This may be coincidence only. Have a look at the Youtube video by Trevor Cochrane. Hope this helps.
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15 Jan 16, Heather Ryan (Australia - temperate climate)
Thank you for joining the conversation on my sandy soil problem. I will certainly do some research on the product you suggested and watch the video. - any knowledge from personal experience is certainly appreciated. Heather.
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10 Feb 16, Karl Parkes (Australia - temperate climate)
In 2009,I moved into a sydney coastal village at Narrabeen, and was given quite a large garden area for my use.This area was originally a sand dune area and the "soil"was atrocious and dried out before my eyes.Also nutrient quality was practically zero.So I got to work on the problem.Once a month for FOUR YEARS,I applied a 5 cm.layer of grass clippings all over the place [tedious] and let it rot in.I also watered the clippings often so that they would rot away.Finally,it worked and I now have a top zonal area of about 30 cms.which appears fertile and my plantings are going well.I also applied chicken poo pellets 3 times a year and soluble fertiliser.I still have to water regularly because although the topsoil is now good,the underlying base is pure sand with no water retention properties.
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16 Feb 16, Heather Ryan (Australia - temperate climate)
Thank you for joining in the conversation on a solution for sandy soils. I have read your comment with interest and will look forward to solving my problem too with a lot of organic matter, hard work and some patience. Pleased to hear all the work you have put into your soil is finally paying off...well done!!
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Showing 161 - 170 of 371 comments
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Carrots: -- Germination minimum temp is 2c: optimum germination temp is 10c to 25c (the temperatures must be sustained). Seeds germinate over a 2-week period -- if crust forms on the top of the soil, germination will be restricted. *********** Optimum growing temps : 15C to 20C , with a minimum of 5C and a maximum of 24C Outside of the growing range (less than 5c or more than 24c) the carrot goes into "dormancy/holding pattern" with extreme temps killing the carrot. ********* Average days to harvest for carrots is 60 to 80 days. The days to harvest are calculated based on ideal growing conditions (temperatures/sunshine/water). *************** Having lived in your area MANY years ago – I can recall – and checked with environment Canada – Based on last year’s temp – June was a good month to start planting carrots – and September had decent carrot growing temps – as did the first week of October. I would plant carrots in semi-shade as Stoney Creek can get VERY HOT in mid-summer – and this is a problem for carrots that don’t like temps over 24c. ********* So, what I see is a total of 129 days of good carrot growing weather (June 01 – to the first week in October). You need 2 weeks for germination and depending on the type of carrot about 80 days to harvest: total of 94 days. If you plant starting June 01 – you can plant carrots every couple of weeks until around July 5th (07/05 plus 95 days yields a date in the first week in October). If you want to do only 2 plantings – then I would plant on June 01, and again the last week of June. This is based on 80 days to harvest – if you have carrots with a higher number of days to germination and/or days to harvest (like dragon carrots that take 90 days) – adjust accordingly. You need your last harvest in by the first week in October so count backward to find your last planting date. Bolero Nantes have the following stats: Germination 10 - 20 days and days to harvest 70. The site indicates that your last planting should be 3 months before your first expected frost date -- and it looks like your first expected frost date is October 15 -- which yields a last planting date of: July 15th which is a couple of weeks later than what I have calculated .... remember that Nobody can guarantee what your weather will be ..... when it comes to your last planting, I would error to the side of planting a little early -- and I would feel a little bit short on time with a July 15th planting...but I have heard of people planting later and doing just fine.

- Celeste Archer

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