Growing Tomato

Lycopersicon esculentum : Solanaceae / the nightshade family

Jan F M A M J J A S O N Dec
    S                  
      T T T            
      P P              

(Best months for growing Tomato in USA - Zone 5a regions)

  • S = Plant undercover in seed trays
  • T = Plant out (transplant) seedlings
  • P = Sow seed
  • Grow in seed trays, and plant out in 4-6 weeks. Sow seed at a depth approximately three times the diameter of the seed. Best planted at soil temperatures between 61°F and 95°F. (Show °C/cm)
  • Space plants: 16 - 24 inches apart
  • Harvest in 8-17 weeks.
  • Compatible with (can grow beside): Asparagus, Chervil,Carrot, Celery, Chives, Parsley, Marigold, Basil
  • Avoid growing close to: Rosemary, Potatoes, Fennel, Cucumber

Your comments and tips

13 Apr 17, Carmen cantone (Australia - cool/mountain climate)
I live in wallan Victoria. I have my tomatoe seeds. Not sure what month I should put the seeds in the ground outside Can I put them in a polystyrene container first and cover them with a glass lid till their germinate. If so what month should I start this
14 Apr 17, Brian (Australia - temperate climate)
Carmen I'm a bit north/east of you. I wait till the last week of August usually and mine do well. Tomatoes are prone to damage by frost and severe cold. planting in August/September is best, You still may need to protect them with a cover (clear plastic is what I use) overnight until the last of the frosts.
14 Apr 17, Giovanni (Australia - sub-tropical climate)
Despite the plants you see in the nurseries and shops from August, tomatoes will not do well until late October and into November. The sunny Spring days are enjoyable but the soil needs to warm up to about 15-17 degrees before tomatoes will do well. You could start seedlings off inside in late August using the cells of egg cartons or as you suggest, in a polystyrene container with a piece of glass over it. The edge cutouts on the container will provide ventilation. Ensure the seedlings don't 'cook' through the glass by covering with a piece of old net curtain or a leafy small branch on a bright day.
10 Apr 17, Desmond thomas thomas Curnow (Australia - temperate climate)
Why as soon as you start to pick or before the plants get mottled leaves and die .getting few or no tomatoes
11 Apr 17, gaz (Australia - temperate climate)
You maybe need a bit of the insect repellent,or Derris dust but that will kill everything,the thing I cant remember is puperon or somthing,it is a good insecticide,but wait a day or 2 before eating any produce,,.
11 Apr 17, Jo (Australia - sub-tropical climate)
It sounds like you have a soil born virus disease. Soil hygiene through crop rotation is very important for tomatoes. Only plant tomatoes in the same spot after three years, If you are a smoker, use gloves as the viruses that affect tobacco also affect tomatoes. Selecting wilt resistant varieties will also help. destroy all affected plants or put them in the garbage bin.
05 Apr 17, Aloese (New Zealand - temperate climate)
I have small tomato plants growing up now everywhere in my garden. Can they still produce fruits or it's the waste of time and get rid of them?
07 Apr 17, John (Australia - sub-tropical climate)
Unless your area is frost-free they are not likely to survive. We have them coming up in our garden because of a warm Autumn but the first frost will finish them.
29 Mar 17, carolyn gladwin (Australia - temperate climate)
I belong to a community garden locally, and we seem to disagree on how to raise tomatoes! The tomatoes have mostly not done at all well. They are in raised beds but are watered thoroughly every night. Some of us feel they've failed because of too much water. They are watered low down but drenched! Most of the tomatoes are not formed properly, or never formed at all, they are mishapen, and motley. in other words barely usable. The leaves have browned and shrivelled. They just haven't looked healthy. They haven't been mulched because of the slater problem but have mostly mushroom compost dug in. Can you resolve this issue for us please?
03 Apr 17, Mike (Australia - temperate climate)
You are over watering by far too much. Depends on the soil and stage of the plants growth. Small plant do not need as much water as older plants. Say 4 plants - small plants would only need a few seconds a day and older plants 30-60 seconds. The soil should be moist not wet wet. Soil wet for a long time goes sour. A good idea is to break the top of the soil after a good down pour of rain etc. Soil needs aeration. If you mulch the soil then water each 2nd or 3rd day.
Showing 341 - 350 of 815 comments

Your Blossom end rot could be caused by the small pot. Try a 30L minimum for a tomato of up to 1m, and 50L+ tubs for anything taller. The problem in Northern NZ (Auckland upwards) in the intense heat, humidity, and constant winds on clear days that dry the soil. The soil seesaws from dry to wet, with us trying to compensate the loss three times a day, in small pots. You'll get excellent plants, but blossom end rot, and no useful fruit. I buy seeds from Southern suppliers who have clearly defined seasons in their districts. Here in West Auckland, the sun mid-spring onward is almost too strong for tomatoes (as noted in the comment from The Shore above), and the humidity is oppressive. They are part shade plants here, and 30L is absolute minimum for varieties that suppliers claim can be grown in 18L, or less. This year I'm using no less than 54L each plant, plus grass clipping mulch. So far so good. It's the only way to maintain soil a consistent moisture.

- Lee

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