Growing Tomato

Lycopersicon esculentum : Solanaceae / the nightshade family

Jan F M A M J J A S O N Dec
    S                  
      T T T            
      P P              

(Best months for growing Tomato in USA - Zone 5a regions)

  • S = Plant undercover in seed trays
  • T = Plant out (transplant) seedlings
  • P = Sow seed
  • Grow in seed trays, and plant out in 4-6 weeks. Sow seed at a depth approximately three times the diameter of the seed. Best planted at soil temperatures between 61°F and 95°F. (Show °C/cm)
  • Space plants: 16 - 24 inches apart
  • Harvest in 8-17 weeks.
  • Compatible with (can grow beside): Asparagus, Chervil,Carrot, Celery, Chives, Parsley, Marigold, Basil
  • Avoid growing close to: Rosemary, Potatoes, Fennel, Cucumber

Your comments and tips

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09 Aug 14, Deb (Australia - cool/mountain climate)
I'm looking at growing tomatoes in containers - not got a lot of space on my balcony & I have so many veggie plants already. What would be the best small plant which is delicious. I've had trouble in the past, it6's a bit hit & miss?
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26 Jul 14, Deepak Bhatia (New Zealand - temperate climate)
How much sunlight does the tomatoe plant need Thanks
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30 Mar 16, Mike (New Zealand - temperate climate)
For best results, 6 - 8 hrs of direct sunlight per day. Calculate every hour before midday as being only a 1/2 hr. For instance, if your plants are sheltered from the morning sun until 10:00am, calculate that as only 1 hr, therefore you require another 5 - 7 hours of afternoon sun.
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21 Jul 14, Hester (South Africa - Humid sub-tropical climate)
I live in the Klein Karoo, winter everythig dies with frost and in the summer the birds eats everything the sun don't scorge. I want to put up a hot house. Which variety is best for growing in a hothouse?
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21 Sep 19, Dave Ridley (South Africa - Dry summer sub-tropical climate)
Hothouse is good for winter, summer time I recommend shade netting house constructed with cheap treated wooden poles and at least 40% shade netting to keep sun off a bit and birds out. Grow your own choice of tomatoe variety and any other summer vegetable you wish. PS. Make the structure tall enough to stand up in or you’ll get a pain in the back crouching over.
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05 Jun 14, mike millar (South Africa - Summer rainfall climate)
I grow tomatoes and peppers in my small town house garden. The fruit of both of these plants get stung by something leaving a black dot on the outside. When you open the fruit the inside is all rotten. What can I do to stop this from happening. Regards Mike
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02 Jun 14, christo (South Africa - Dry summer sub-tropical climate)
Hi there, I 've got tomatoes,1.8m high.They suffered a lot fr red spider bug.I treated it insecticide called MICTA sucsesfully.They bear nice fruit bit the new flowers get dry before making a little fruit. Can somebody tel me WHY.
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26 Feb 16, hennie (South Africa - Summer rainfall climate)
are there any signs of rot on the stems , help them along with 2 tablespoons of Epsom salts in five liters of water every two months. losing of flowers usual has only two causes , a shortage of water and or shortage of minerals , therefore ensure that water is provided and don't water the foliage but soil level , but don't over water them . Epsom salts seems to be a wonder solve them all. red spider mites lay there eggs in the stems of your plants check for any signs of damage,on the stems.
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18 Aug 16, Derek Bennett (South Africa - Humid sub-tropical climate)
Hi Hennie. You appear to have a good knowledge of tomatoes. Please, could you send me details of how to grow toms.. Sincerely Derek
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15 May 14, allan nicolas (Australia - sub-tropical climate)
My tomatoe bushes grow real healthy and get flowers and only some turn into fruit but then the fruit dosent grow and ripen Help please
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Showing 491 - 500 of 815 comments
See comments for all plants

Your Blossom end rot could be caused by the small pot. Try a 30L minimum for a tomato of up to 1m, and 50L+ tubs for anything taller. The problem in Northern NZ (Auckland upwards) in the intense heat, humidity, and constant winds on clear days that dry the soil. The soil seesaws from dry to wet, with us trying to compensate the loss three times a day, in small pots. You'll get excellent plants, but blossom end rot, and no useful fruit. I buy seeds from Southern suppliers who have clearly defined seasons in their districts. Here in West Auckland, the sun mid-spring onward is almost too strong for tomatoes (as noted in the comment from The Shore above), and the humidity is oppressive. They are part shade plants here, and 30L is absolute minimum for varieties that suppliers claim can be grown in 18L, or less. This year I'm using no less than 54L each plant, plus grass clipping mulch. So far so good. It's the only way to maintain soil a consistent moisture.

- Lee

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This planting guide is a general reference intended for home gardeners. We recommend that you take into account your local conditions in making planting decisions. Gardenate is not a farming or commercial advisory service. For specific advice, please contact your local plant suppliers, gardening groups, or agricultural department. The information on this site is presented in good faith, but we take no responsibility as to the accuracy of the information provided.
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