Growing Tomato

Lycopersicon esculentum : Solanaceae / the nightshade family

Jan F M A M J J A S O N Dec
    S                  
      T T T            
      P P              

(Best months for growing Tomato in USA - Zone 5a regions)

  • S = Plant undercover in seed trays
  • T = Plant out (transplant) seedlings
  • P = Sow seed
  • Grow in seed trays, and plant out in 4-6 weeks. Sow seed at a depth approximately three times the diameter of the seed. Best planted at soil temperatures between 61°F and 95°F. (Show °C/cm)
  • Space plants: 16 - 24 inches apart
  • Harvest in 8-17 weeks.
  • Compatible with (can grow beside): Asparagus, Chervil,Carrot, Celery, Chives, Parsley, Marigold, Basil
  • Avoid growing close to: Rosemary, Potatoes, Fennel, Cucumber

Your comments and tips

09 Aug 14, Deb (Australia - cool/mountain climate)
I'm looking at growing tomatoes in containers - not got a lot of space on my balcony & I have so many veggie plants already. What would be the best small plant which is delicious. I've had trouble in the past, it6's a bit hit & miss?
26 Jul 14, Deepak Bhatia (New Zealand - temperate climate)
How much sunlight does the tomatoe plant need Thanks
30 Mar 16, Mike (New Zealand - temperate climate)
For best results, 6 - 8 hrs of direct sunlight per day. Calculate every hour before midday as being only a 1/2 hr. For instance, if your plants are sheltered from the morning sun until 10:00am, calculate that as only 1 hr, therefore you require another 5 - 7 hours of afternoon sun.
21 Jul 14, Hester (South Africa - Humid sub-tropical climate)
I live in the Klein Karoo, winter everythig dies with frost and in the summer the birds eats everything the sun don't scorge. I want to put up a hot house. Which variety is best for growing in a hothouse?
21 Sep 19, Dave Ridley (South Africa - Dry summer sub-tropical climate)
Hothouse is good for winter, summer time I recommend shade netting house constructed with cheap treated wooden poles and at least 40% shade netting to keep sun off a bit and birds out. Grow your own choice of tomatoe variety and any other summer vegetable you wish. PS. Make the structure tall enough to stand up in or you’ll get a pain in the back crouching over.
05 Jun 14, mike millar (South Africa - Summer rainfall climate)
I grow tomatoes and peppers in my small town house garden. The fruit of both of these plants get stung by something leaving a black dot on the outside. When you open the fruit the inside is all rotten. What can I do to stop this from happening. Regards Mike
02 Jun 14, christo (South Africa - Dry summer sub-tropical climate)
Hi there, I 've got tomatoes,1.8m high.They suffered a lot fr red spider bug.I treated it insecticide called MICTA sucsesfully.They bear nice fruit bit the new flowers get dry before making a little fruit. Can somebody tel me WHY.
26 Feb 16, hennie (South Africa - Summer rainfall climate)
are there any signs of rot on the stems , help them along with 2 tablespoons of Epsom salts in five liters of water every two months. losing of flowers usual has only two causes , a shortage of water and or shortage of minerals , therefore ensure that water is provided and don't water the foliage but soil level , but don't over water them . Epsom salts seems to be a wonder solve them all. red spider mites lay there eggs in the stems of your plants check for any signs of damage,on the stems.
18 Aug 16, Derek Bennett (South Africa - Humid sub-tropical climate)
Hi Hennie. You appear to have a good knowledge of tomatoes. Please, could you send me details of how to grow toms.. Sincerely Derek
15 May 14, allan nicolas (Australia - sub-tropical climate)
My tomatoe bushes grow real healthy and get flowers and only some turn into fruit but then the fruit dosent grow and ripen Help please
Showing 491 - 500 of 815 comments

I have been growing tomatoes in pots at North Sydney for the last 10 years. Each year is more problematic and depressing than the previous even though I sterilise pots and use new potting mix each year. Plants start off very healthy then about the time that fruit set, the plants start yellowing from the bottom and within a few weeks they are history. This year was interesting in that I placed the pots on a second story balcony well away from previous plantings on the assumption that whatever was killing the plants near the ground may not exist on the balcony. I planted in September, great plants until mid November when they did the same thing - started yellowing from the bottom up and ended up basically dead after a few weeks. I took one of the plants (Mighty Red) which was dead except for one small leaf about 10mm above ground level. I cut the plant off completely immediately above this leaf and planted it in a new garden bed we have recently created in the area where we had previously used pots. For a couple of weeks nothing happened then the plant started growing and now in mid March we have just picked 3 large tomatoes off a very healthy (large) plant with another 15 or so tomatoes still on the plant. I still don't know what causes the problem but the experiment with this 'Lazarus' plant is nothing if not interesting.

- Ian

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This planting guide is a general reference intended for home gardeners. We recommend that you take into account your local conditions in making planting decisions. Gardenate is not a farming or commercial advisory service. For specific advice, please contact your local plant suppliers, gardening groups, or agricultural department. The information on this site is presented in good faith, but we take no responsibility as to the accuracy of the information provided.
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