Growing Tomato

Lycopersicon esculentum : Solanaceae / the nightshade family

Jan F M A M J J A S O N Dec
    S                  
      T T T            
      P P              

(Best months for growing Tomato in USA - Zone 5a regions)

  • S = Plant undercover in seed trays
  • T = Plant out (transplant) seedlings
  • P = Sow seed
  • Grow in seed trays, and plant out in 4-6 weeks. Sow seed at a depth approximately three times the diameter of the seed. Best planted at soil temperatures between 61°F and 95°F. (Show °C/cm)
  • Space plants: 16 - 24 inches apart
  • Harvest in 8-17 weeks.
  • Compatible with (can grow beside): Asparagus, Chervil,Carrot, Celery, Chives, Parsley, Marigold, Basil
  • Avoid growing close to: Rosemary, Potatoes, Fennel, Cucumber

Your comments and tips

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11 Aug 17, Joanne (Australia - arid climate)
Hi, can i sow seeds in my greenhouse or is it still to cold, or can i start tomatoes that are allready baby stage. Jo
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17 Jul 17, brian jones (Australia - sub-tropical climate)
Should i remove yellow flowers from immature plants just planted?
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20 Jul 17, Mike (Australia - sub-tropical climate)
What variety of tomato have you planted. No, they will flower as they grow. If it is a bushy type of tomato most of the fruit will ripen at the same time. If it is an indeterminate type of tomato it will keep growing - as it grows it will keep flowering and when you come to harvest them, the harvest will be spread over weeks months. If it is not a bushy type (determinate) it can grow to several meters high.
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03 Jul 17, Len (Australia - temperate climate)
How early can I grow tomato seed under a cold frame in Victoria? We don't get frosts, but I was hoping to start sow seeds late July then repot under cover a couple of times before planting out in the garden in October. I know traditionally you wouldn't plant out tomatoes until Melbourne Cup day. I've yet to grow any tomatoes in my garden as this is a new project. Any feedback would be beneficial
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07 Jul 17, Mike (Australia - sub-tropical climate)
The guide says start seedlings in Aug Sept. Planting seeds and growing them for 1-2 mths isn't as easy as it sounds, especially if growing undercover. They can become spindly if trying to find light. I'd suggest you wait until August and after they have developed a few leaves give them some sunlight each day to toughen them up.
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07 Jul 17, John (Australia - temperate climate)
I'd probably wait until September to sow seed in a cold frame to reduce the chance of having 'leggy' plants.
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16 Jul 17, Len (Australia - temperate climate)
Thanks John and Mike. Will hold off until Mid to late August. Much appreciated.
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30 Jun 17, Mike (Australia - sub-tropical climate)
Further to my posts below. I have found this which I believe is the problem with my bunchy curly leaves on cherry tomatoes. It is called -Tomato yellow leaf curl virus. TYLCV. Department of Agriculture and Fisheries Qld In March 2006, tomato leaf curl disease was found in cherry tomato crops in the south and west periphery of Brisbane. The disease has been found in many crops, with infection levels ranging from 5 to 100 per cent of plants. Losses in severely affected crops have been very high and the disease is a major threat to tomato production. In April 2006, infected plants were also found around Bundaberg. By June 2007, the virus was present in the Lockyer Valley, Fassifern Valley, Esk, Caboolture and Redlands areas. Since 2009 it has become a serious production constraint around Bundaberg. In February 2011, it was found in backyard tomato plants in Mareeba on the Atherton Tablelands. Tomato leaf curl disease is caused by viruses in the Geminivirus family of plant viruses, and is spread by whiteflies. The virus causing this disease is tomato yellow leaf curl virus (TYLCV). This virus is distinct from tomato leaf curl Australia virus (TLCV), which occurs in the Northern Territory and at several locations on Cape York Peninsula. Silverleaf whitefly (Bemisia tabaci Biotype B) was first recorded in Australia in 1994, it is now a widespread pest in Queensland and Western Australia and could become a major pest in most irrigated agricultural areas of Australia. Silverleaf whitefly (SLW) is also known as poinsettia or sweetpotato whitefly and in USA literature it is now referred to as Bemisia argentifolii. SLW has a wide host range (over 500 species) of crops and weeds, and is difficult to control as it has developed resistance to conventional insecticides. Biotype Q was discovered recently in Queensland. There is also an Australian native species. These three biotypes are indistinquishable in the field.
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11 Jun 17, LenM (Australia - temperate climate)
Planning to grow some heirloom cherry tomatoes when the time is right. Has anyone here in Vic -Aus had any success with the Florida Weave as a support method .? Cheers
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19 Jun 17, Mike (Australia - temperate climate)
They are grown similar to that commercially in Qld. They put a post in the ground each end of the row. Then 2" square posts each 5 m or so. As the plants grow they run wires along both sides of the plants. They then crimp the two wires together at the post. Rows are about 3-4' apart. I have done something similar this year - 2 posts 8' apart with a post in the middle. Run twine each 12" and pull together and tie at the middle post. Saves tying 10 times to a stake for each plant.
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I live on the North Shore, Auckland and have done container growing for several years now, This is the third year of growing tomatoes on a large scale - predominantly determinate varieties. I source my seeds from Kings Seeds who supply a determinate variety called Sub Arctic Plenty which I have experimented with variable results. All plants raised indoors, gently hardened off then potted out into 15L tubs. I use 50/50 new compost/previously used container soil from a non-tomato pot mixed well with added slow release fertiliser and half a cup of powdered eggshell.. The top is mulched with straw and 4 marigolds to attract the bees. They also need a 5ft stake. Generally the plants like the morning and late sun and need shade from the glaring hot midday temperatures. Each year I am growing them earlier to avoid the heat of summer. The pots on the decking facing North fully exposed struggled, the pots that were shaded midday grew much better. Next year I plan to plant out in July/August and see how they get on then. They have a mild taste, personally I prefer the richer flavours of the dark toms but they are good for dehydrating. I also found that they prefer dryer soil than some of my other varieties. I liquid feed them once a week using a litre of water. Don't let them stand in trays, they need full drainage. Any run off from the trays I use on something else (the pineapple sage is very grateful). Spay every part of the plant with a brew of bicarsoda to pre-empt and control powdery mildew weekly. Please let me know if you want any other info - happy to share. Let me know how you get on.

- Karen

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